You'd be surprised to see how disgusting and dirty they become in that time. To be honest, doing a coolant and brake flush every 3 years should be the minimum. It's never a waste to do it every 2-3 years, it's only between 100-150$ for peace of mind, and saves your brake components. When the brake fluid becomes black, that's when you should do it. I'd expect better from someone who lives in our weather. With filling the bleeder you dont have to worry about running out of fluid since the tank is larger and holds more.

release air, remove pressure bleeder and top off fluids if needed. place pressure bleeder cap on reservoir and pump 12-15 psi.Ħ. fill the pressure bleeder with the DOT 4 fluid.Ģ *optional* suck out old fluid from reservoir and fill with newģ. Having a different color fluid helps identifying when its all new.ġ. My fluid was the same color so for the 1st one I flushed it till it was around 1/4 left in the reservoir, this ensured it was all new fluid in the lines. I topped off when going to the next brake. You will just have to top it off and flush again to make sure you get all the air out. When I bled mine the reservoir never ran dry while flushing the lines but i continue to monitor the reservoir. After bleeding all the lines top the reservoir off and your done. ensuring you fill the reservoir to ensure it doesnt run out.Ħ. Open the line and drain it till the fluid color changes (if you have different color) OR drain till the reservoir is low but ENSURE it doesnt run out.ĥ. go to the bleeder and connect the drain hose. This keeps a constant pressure and forces it out.Ĥ. put the pressure bleeder on snug and pump the bleeder to around 12-15 psi. Fill it up with new approved DOT 4 fliudģ. Dont completly dry it out so prevent any pockets.Ģ. suck out or bleed the reservoir to a bit is left.

You can make your own for around 20-25 bucks too. So future times just need to buy fluid and not pay dealer pricing again and again. Bought the schwaben 3 liter bleeder and catch bottle from ECU tuning and picked up DOT 4 fluid from BMW. With the bleeder, catch bottle and fluid it ran me about 80 bucks if im not mistaken. it doesnt wear the rubber hoses while in storage and 2 if a connection pops loose it doesnt fling fluid everywhere just air. You can pressure bleed it with air or fill the container with brake fluid. You can purchase a Motive or Schwaben pressure bleeder and a catcher (or use a bottle and rubber hose). Its quick simple and can do it with 1 person. Cant get anything back in the lines like tradition pedal pumping, it forces the fluids out only. They use them at shops as well cant do wrong. What type of brake fluid is recommended for the F30 with standard brakes? I cannot find the sequence you should do the flush in, which caliper to start with? Is there any coding involved or some brake flush mode to set the car in? If it is, is it neccessary? But I can't find much information about the F30. Just got the notice that it is time to do the brake fluid replacement / flush. If you've replaced either the ABS valve block, or anything upstream.MC or lines.then the BMW diagnostic system will have to be activated to cycle the ABS during the bleeding process. You do not need to 'cycle the ABS' to drive out air bubbles from the ABS valve block if the system hasn't been opened up, and you haven't let the fluid run out during bleeding.so if you top up often and keep the MC tank from ever running dry.normal bleeding will do just fine. stirring up the last bit of old fluid in the calipers always seemed like a good idea to me and I've followed it with all my vehicles. This moves the caliper piston and stirs up any residual old fluid in the calipers and ejects it.since calipers are the lowest points in the system and water is heavier than brake fluid. Use either BMW OEM or Pentosin Dot 4 LV fluid.īleeding sequence is right rear, left rear, right front, left front.Īudi/VW recommends doing a few (4 as I recall) old fashioned 'pump bleeds' (use assistant to hold pressure on brake pedal as you open the bleeder, and hold it down until you close it B4 releasing pedal for the next 'pump stroke') after using pressure (or vacuum) bleeding to get clear fluid running out of the bleeders. The brake system is always 'opened'.there must be a vent in the master cylinder to allow the fluid to return to the tank after the brake pedal is released.brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs moisture) so it becomes contaminated with moisture at the fluid/air interface in the MC tank.īMW (and most other car makers) require brake fluid flush at regular intervals.įor current BMW's: First flush at 3 years after production, then every two years.įluid requirement: DOT 4 LV (low viscosity). Do you track the car? Have you opened the hydraulic system and introduced air or moisture? If not, then you're wasting your time and money.

Bmw 3 series brake fluid change cost